Miu Miu.
It's spring! At least mentally and on Miucci Prada's Miu Miu runway. Come fall, her fans will still be singing an optimistic, Easter-colored tune.
It started with quilted puffers reimagined in pastel jackets, miniskirts and tennis dresses worn with clear, colorful rain booties. She then segued into primary-colored vests, jackets and coats with a utilitarian vibe but made playful and modern through the color choices - always bright or super feminine pastels.
The silhouettes were super simple- pleated skirts ,tanks sweater,kid's jackets. But the magic was in how she played with textures, opacity and unusual combinations. Like an intarsia sweater under a jacquard party dress here or a similar jacquard look paired with both a sweater and windbreaker. As much as this was styling trick, it was effective here, and made sense in the meta intellectual way Prada approaches clothes and classic notions.
Louis Vuitton.
What ungoldef on the runway was definitely Ghesquière's vision of Vuitton, not of his past or the brand's. Sporty and young, lightly touching on the seventies.
This was a collection gigh on wearbility, as if it were a statement about getting back to the business of selling clithes that women all over the workd want to wear. Take a black croc coat- beautifully executed with the subtle molding that is Ghesquière's signature, but sinple enough you could( and would want to ) wear it every day. The accesories made a statement immediately- patent croc or leather booties at just fhe right manageable height and little trunk- like bags with removable covers. Some bags looked like they were shedding their skin, a subtle allusion to what the venerable parisian house was doing at that very moment.
Alexander Mcqueen.
This was themost overt use of fur seen so far on the runways. Entire looks were constructed from the stuff, from and over- sized fox cape to turtleneck dresses.
There was a ferocious undertone to the series of furs. They were big statements, or tufted details that felt almost like they were part of the models themselves. In some cases, eyebrows were covered in arched fu tufts.
VALENTINO.
And to balance the stunningly decorated second half of the collection. Chiris and piccioli offered a palette refresh in advance with a series of chicly-simple silk dresses and jump suits in monotone olive, pink and navy, and then a black leather jumpsuit. They had flow, movement and understated glamour.
It started with clean silhouettes layered in with interesting colors and patterns -an -eye-catching red, black and white polka dot on the signature spare-and-flare Valentino mini-dress shape or covering a leather cape. There was a soft seventies feel to the way high-gloss boots peeked out from under full skirts and trim little tops and shirts.
CHANEL.
Saint Laurent.
These were cheeky schoolgirls by day in the English tweed capes and school uniforms, and party girls by night. The silhouettes were short-short and a -line teamed with knee- high boots.
YSL classics like bow blouses and sweet bows popped up all over the place, but these girls were tougher and more tapped into their rocker sides.